Days 23-25 (March 3-5, 2024): TUNISIA

The idea of a round-the-world trip started with Tunisia, believe it or not.  One night in early 2023, I was looking at resorts in Tunisia and was amazed at the beaches, the quality of the beach resorts and the seemingly ‘give-away’ rates.  I thought, “Wow, what a great spot for March Break 2024!”  And then I thought, “We could easily add Casablanca to that itinerary.”  Well, the rest is history:  before I knew it, a beach vacation in Tunisia was out the window and Tunisia became just a two-day stop on a roster of 15 countries.

The big thing to note about Tunisia is the fact that the country has been trying to get a solid footing since two horrific terrorist attacks on tourists happened in 2015:  22 tourists were shot in the National Bardo Museum in Tunis and a few months later, 38 tourists were shot on the beach of a resort in Sousse, south of Tunis.  The country’s tourism industry tanked as a result of that tragedy (for understandable reasons) and has been struggling to recover ever since.  A new president has been in place for a couple of years — a lawyer by trade — who is taking a no-nonsense approach to things and is trying to turn Tunisia around.

We saw very few European tourists during our stay and not a single North American tourist.  And did we stand out as we walked around the city?  Absolutely.  We felt so conspicuous, in fact, we thought our presence might end up on the evening news! 

We arrived at our hotel on Sunday late afternoon and soon headed to the centre of Tunis to explore.  The next day, we focused on the Roman ruins of Carthage, as well as the beach area northeast of Carthage, and then explored the centre of Tunis a little more, zipping around in Bolts (taxis).  However, we did take one local bus ride - a 50-minute run from the centre of the city northeast to La Marsa, which is a beach area.  It was interesting to be crammed into a transit bus on that route, and it gave us a window into the daily life of Tunisians as we crawled through the neghbourhoods of La Goulette, Carthage and La Marsa.

The heavy military presence is intended to instill confidence in visitors.  But, somehow, it had a very intimidating effect that suggested the risk of another attack was high. I think the government is caught between a rock and a hard place as to the approach it should take to military presence in the city.  We asked many people if they felt we were at risk, and all but one person (a soldier) told us we were fine to walk about.  

Tunis overall feels neglected and worn.  It is a city that has much potential, but it needs investment and work.  And just good ol’ fashioned spit ‘n polish could go a long way.

We enjoyed our time in Tunis, and someday, when the memory of 2015 is well-faded, maybe we will indeed spend March Break at one of the fine beach resorts south of Tunis, as was the original plan!

 Our first view of the shores of Africa: on final descent into Tunis-Cartage International Airport. Tunisia is blessed with wonderful beaches. 

The Sheraton Tunis Hotel, our accommodation for the visit.

An arrangement of fresh roses and a huge display of fruit awaited us when we checked into our room.

Built to commemorate former President Ben Ali’s assumption of power in 1987, this 38m-high clocktower forms a gilt-topped landmark at the eastern end of Ave Habib Bourguiba. Part obelisk, part mid-century-style lampshade, its mashrabiyya (lattice screen) is illuminated from within at night.

Running west from the Clocktower is Ave Habib Bourguiba, a wide avenue with a pedestrian zone down the middle. Sidewalk cafes adorn both sides.

Ave Habib Bourguiba is lined with steel crowd control barriers and a strong military and police presence is all around. We thought the barriers were for a parade or something about to happen or that had just happened, but no, they are a permanent installation in response to the 2015 terrorist attacks.  The few churches around, in particular, have very heavy military surveillance. This vehicle was in front of the Cathedral of St. Vincent de Paul and Saint Olivia. 

At the end of Ave Habib Bourguiba, a worn “I ❤️ Tunis” installation sits in Place de l’Independance. Given the military vehicles next to it, it’s like it’s forcibly trying to convince the public to fall in love with Tunis!

The faded municipal theatre on Ave Habib Bourguiba. As with so many things in Tunis, it speaks to the influence of the French and a time of former glory, but has faded into an era of disrepair and neglect. 

The Russian orthodox church on Avenue Mohammad V was surrounded with barriers and military personnel. Christians are the object of great persecution and abuse in Tunisia.

The Tunisian City of Culture is located on Avenue Mohamed V, one of the largest streets in Tunis, on an area of about 20 acres. It has three theatres, three exhibition halls, a contemporary and modern art museum, a national book centre and a cultural investment centre.

The city also has an 1800-seat opera theatre and other halls for production, warehousing and storage.

This striking building in the downtown core near the clock tower is a quintessential piece of 1970s architecture. However, the building is abandoned.

The view at dawn from our Sheraton hotel room overlooking the part of Tunis called the “new city”.

Northeast of Tunis is a suburb named La Marsa, which is on a lovely stretch of beach. This camel, at one end of the Corniche in La Marsa, caught our attention. (A ‘corniche’ is a waterfront promenade in the Mediterranean / Middle Eastern world.)

Walking the Corniche in La Marsa. 

Marsa Beach, looking north.

And the ubiquitous “first touch of the Gulf of Tunis” moment!

Carthage

Carthage was an ancient city on the eastern side of the Lake of Tunis. Carthage was one of the most important trading hubs of the Ancient Mediterranean and one of the most affluent cities of the classical world. It became the capital city of the civilisation of Ancient Carthage and later  Roman Carthage. The ancient city was destroyed in the nearly-three year siege of Carthage by the Roman Republic during the Third Punic War in 146 BC. It was re-developed a century later as Roman Carthage, which became the major city of the Roman Empire in the province of Africa. The question of Carthaginian decline and demise has remained a subject of literary, political, artistic and philosophical debates in both ancient and modern histories. Carthage’s ruins are quite extensive and stunning — and constitute a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This is what the city of Carthage looked like in its heyday.

Ruins of a sixth century Christian Basilica near the Antonius Baths.

Overlooking the Antonius Baths, which were a focal point in Carthage.  It was a two-storey complex, but only the first floor remains.  The Baths sat adjacent to the bay.

Such ornate touches on the Baths!  And imagine: that decoration has been sitting there for 2000 years!

On a hillside up from the Baths are the Roman Villas, which had an amazing water-view.

These wall or floor tiles had amazing detail.  It is incredible that they are still intact after 2000 years.

A typical view from the Roman Villas.

Floor tiles still in place.

Saint Louis Cathedral fron the 19th century sits adjacent to the Carthage site of Byrsa Hill and the ruins of the Palace of Gaiseric.

And just to show the kind of day it was, at one moment the Cathedral was under full sun;  the next moment, the black clouds moved in and it poured!  The entire day was like a faucet being turned on and off.

Cactus blooms at Byrsa Hill.

The Roman Amphitheatre in Carthage.

Mosques

It does without saying that Tunis has some impressive examples of Mosques.  The minaret style in North Africa is quite different than one sees in the Middle East, where you usually see two minarets of a thinner and more ornate design.  Here, there is just one minaret in a thicker, more boxy style. 

Mosque Malik Ibn Anas Carthage

Mosque in La Marsa

Al Ahmadi Mosque in La Marsa.

Bab al-Bahr marks the entry to Tunis’ Medina or market.

About to enter the Medina… which is almost like entering an abyss!  It’s a never-ending, narrow, covered maze of shops, and once inside, you feel like you’re on a conveyer belt, being moved along by the throngs of people, with no sense of where you are!

Doors of the Medina:  One wonderful thing about the Medina in Tunis are the variety of doors you will see.  Some are brilliantly panted, while others are carved very ornately.  Here are a few examples.

Kaaba Mosque and Kasbah Square:  the very patriotic monument below sits in the middle of the square.  In a city teeming with people, the square was empty (except for us!).  There are military buildings all around, so maybe it was off-limits, but no one bothered us or told us to leave.

Where the Romans once played in Carthage, the President now plays!  There is a massive Presidential Palace complex near the ruins of Carthage.  We were not invited in, sadly, but this is one of the entrances - which is as close to the action as we got!

French architecture is everywhere in Tunis.  Patisseries and cafes abound, like this one:  notice the cafe’s name (Le Grand Cafe du Theatre) in French and in Arabic.

One of the most common banks in Tunis is the AMEN Bank.  We agreed that every church should have an AMEN Bank!

The flag of Tunisia, flying proudly in the wind on Byrsa Hill in Carthage.